October 13, (THEWILL) – Folashade Thomas-Fahm is considered one of Nigeria’s most revered fashion designers, and a pioneering figure in Nigerian fashion. The legendary designer is reputed for owning the first boutique in Nigeria and for being the first professionally trained fashion designer in the country. The 91-year-old who alongside a few other fashion designers founded the association now popularly known as the Fashion Designers’ Association of Nigerian (FADAN) regales Ivory Ukonu about how she set out to become what she is today popular for.
How it all started
I started learning how to sew from a local dressmaker in Lagos whose shop was called ‘Sisi Sewing Shop’. In 1953, I moved to England to study nursing, but after being inspired by the boutiques in London, I decided to study fashion instead at St Martins College of Art and Design, London. They taught us about the anatomy of the body. You learn the anatomy of the human body. If you look at yourself, there’s a line and it doesn’t matter whether you are black or white, that line is there that divides you into two. That’s how we learnt fashion. We were taught about the movement of the body, before you learnt about what to drape on that body. I became a qualified fashion designer in 1959 and became the first Nigerian woman to acquire a professional qualification in fashion design.
Honing her skill
While in London, I worked as a model for big brands including Lux Beauty Soap and motorcycles that they were taking to Africa at Earls Court. In 1960, I returned to Nigeria. When I came back, I was walking all around the place looking for a shop or somewhere to put my factory because I had shipped my machines and all the gadgets, including the figure that we learnt in school. I brought them back from the United Kingdom. I walked, searching for a shop. It was tiring, the soles of my shoes were gone.
One day, someone told me that the government had put down a place for newcomers. Everybody that brought a trade, there was an industrial estate in the Yaba area of Lagos for such individuals. It was an industrial estate that the late Obafemi Awolowo and Nnamdi Azikiwe had allocated for us. I remember my space was number 33 and I think it was over 100 units there. So, I opened a factory and the first fashion boutique in Nigeria under the name, Maison Shade which later became known as Shade’s Boutique. I became known for using traditional Nigerian textiles, such as ‘aso oke,’ ‘adire,’ ‘akwete’ and ‘okene’ to design outfits of different styles.
Unique signature style
I am the originator of several outfits, including the women’s kaftan, the ‘boubou,’ a style I created when I feminized the male ‘agbada’ for women by reducing the volume and the transformation of the ‘iro’ into a wrapper skirt.
Perspective on life
It have had a full life. It have had my ups and downs but with many activities. I would say life has been exciting, disappointing, very fruitful, but, luckily, I have always overcome because I wanted to. Earlier on, it was the envy of some women, but I survived. As a matter of fact, I have never allowed anybody to pull me down, even though I went through quite a lot.
Also, God has made it possible for me to do my best. I returned from overseas in 1960. I put the idea to women that they should use the local fabric, instead of those imported things. What I believe in is that if you want to do something, you do it. I put in my own contributions. I was doing fashion shows and, as a matter of fact, it was mostly for charity. Again, the fashion show was a contribution to society and the underprivileged.
Landmark events that defined her time
I think I would be around eight to nine years old then. At that time, we had no food, there was famine, and we were all using millet. I remember that most people didn’t remember or know you had to cook millet a little longer than garri. So, we were all going to the toilet after eating it. We were using it as ‘eba,’ instead of ‘garri.’ I also remember there was a storm that brought down an electric pole and a lot of people died, especially the young ones. At that time, the electric poles were surface-standing, not now that the electric poles are underground and were mostly heavy wood and wires. When that storm happened we had to run back home.
Growing up
Back then, we had a communal life. We used to go to school and when we came back our parents welcomed us. We all ate together. We had an upbringing that each one of us must grind the pepper for each meal in a day. Though the younger wife would try and help but, sometimes, if they helped and my mother saw you, she wouldn’t even say anything; it’s only when you are going to eat that your own stew will be less and when you complain she would ask, were you the one that ground the pepper? So, if the younger wife wanted to help, we would refuse. We had mortar and pepper grinding stone to do all that. There was no grinder or blender at that time. We were using stone to grind. In our home then, most things were said or done in proverbs. If you were doing something wrong, my mother would tell you the consequences using proverbs.
Life’s lessons at 91
First of all, you have to believe in yourself. You really have to be convinced about whatever it is you plan to do. No half measures. Let’s face it. Even up till now, you have friends but not many of them want you to succeed. Not because they don’t want you to succeed per se, but because they would have liked to be in that position instead. If you really want to do something and you really believe in it, go ahead. Maybe your parents might support you but, usually, close friends would like to be the ones doing what you want to do. It is a natural feeling. That is why, most of the time, they dissuade you. I don’t listen to them. I have never. If I want to do something and I believe in it, I go ahead and face it. I don’t listen to them.
For instance, when I became the president of Rotary club, I remember telling the members about dialysis. Why did I talk about dialysis? Two days or a day before, I saw the picture of a little boy needing dialysis and they said they needed N10 million to get the boy a kidney. How would the parents get N10 million to save the boy? The next day or two days after, I was at a Rotary convention for the incoming presidents. Even though I was really afraid when everyone was saying what they intended to do, when it came to my turn, I said ‘dialysis.’ When I said it, I saw the look on their faces and I thought I had said the wrong thing. But today, many years later, the dialysis machine is still there at the General Hospital, Lagos Island, with the names of those who contributed. Aliko Dangote gave me about N150 million and all my friends contributed N1 million each. All their names are there in marble.
Regrets
Closing of my shop by the military government based on a law that prohibited foreigners from having interests or funds in any Nigerian business. Unfortunately, I had a number of foreign sponsors. This was in 1977. My shop was seized and some of the items were sold off. It was later returned to me following a public outcry.
Boundless energy
I think it is all God. I am a weakling, really. I call myself a weakling because God’s guidance has been there. I have fallen twice or three times, but God has been so wonderful. My weak knee is just it and it is a family trait. I now use a walking stick. I thank the good Lord, but I have to be very careful. I still try to put in an effort. I still climb my stairs up and down because a friend said I should try and keep it up, climbing up and down the stairs. To God be the glory, my brain is still intact and sharp. I do remember so clearly.
Becoming an author
I have a book of proverbs called ‘Iwe Owe’. I wrote it so that other people can read and learn from them. Proverbs are what people live by and build on. Like I mentioned earlier, my mother corrected us using proverbs. That was how we were addressed in our home. I have about 70 Yoruba proverbs in all.
